By Yvette Caster, Freelance journalist and podcaster
Tuesday 3 Jul 2018 8:00 am
Before I went to Tokyo I assumed it was all manga, maid cafés and a suffocating swarm of people – one giant scramble crossing at Shibuya.
Its a place Id always wanted to see, but assumed you needed months to explore.
But the city quietly defied all expectations – I found it warmer and more welcoming than London, and not as overwhelming.
In the end, I had less than a week there and I wish Id visited sooner – so if youre a shinnichi (Japanophile) like me, dont put off your trip to Tokyo.
And even better, the city doesnt have to be as expensive as you imagine because Tokyo is no longer one of the top 10 most expensive cities, so if you plan well, you can design an affordable trip.
Its easy to save on food for example.
The joy of sushi restaurants is that you can pick and pay for what you want to eat, as opposed to splashing out on a massive, expensive meal.
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Dont be surprised if your tip is refused.
I made the mistake of leaving a British tip (ie that was above and beyond what I expected – heres 10%).
The waiter was clearly embarrassed and possibly offended.
It turns out that in most places in Japan, tipping is like saying oh poor you, you look like you dont make much money and this place clearly cant afford to pay you well, heres some pity money.
A better way to show your appreciation is to simply be polite and respectful to your waiter or waitress in the first place.
First time visitors to Japan should know that its considered very rude to be late – even a minute or two is frowned upon – so call ahead if youre delayed.
Tokyo is also packed with US convenience store chain 7-Eleven, meaning you can easily pick up picnic meals at more affordable prices.
In terms of accommodation, you can opt for an affordable hotel like the Moxy, which is £72 per night, or try an Airbnb from £15 per night.
Or, if youre feeling adventurous, stay at a love hotel with your partner – you pay by the hour and, although theyre designed with sex in mind, you could use them for a bit of shut-eye too.
The Metro system is cheap and (fairly) easy to get your head round too.
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The first thing I did in Tokyo, after checking in at my hotel, was head to the nearest underground station – mine was Kinshicho.
There was an information desk manned by a guy who handed me some free maps and a city guide in English.
You can also change the settings on the ticket machines so theyre in English, and buy a Pasmo card, which is the Japanese version of an Oyster card.
If youre au fait with the London underground, the Tokyo Metro is really a doddle.
Different lines are colour-coded and named, and the stops have letters and numbers as well as names.
I dont speak a word of Japanese past hello, please and thank you, and I cant read it either, but I found the city very simple to navigate, so dont waste your money on expensive taxis unless you really want to.
Many Metro stations dont have barriers either, so people can get through quicker, which is great.
I visited some of the busiest parts of Tokyo – the anime district of Akihabara, the palace at Otemachi, the Tokyo tower and the famous scramble crossing – all at peak times.
Although there were many people in some of the biggest shopping streets, like Ginza and Shibuya, if my time here was anything to go by, everyone was respectful and had a clear understanding of personal space, so youll be surrounded but not knocked about.
Its easy to see the sights while on a budget too.
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Yes, youll have fun going up the Tokyo Skytree and taking in the views but you can also get similar views for free from the observation decks at The Government Building in Shinjuku.
If you want to browse around arcades, pick up comics and go to maid cafes then Akihabara is the place for you.
And the Kawaii Monster Cafe in Shibuya, the hedgehog cafes and the Robot Restaurant have to be seen to be believed.
But there are also some lovely green spaces to wander round in the heart of the city.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden has beautiful blossoms and attractive bridges as well as alternative views of the city.
Yoyogi Park by the Meiji Shrine is another option, with fountains, lawns and wooded areas, and theres free entry.
The luxury stuff:
If, like me, youve never quite outgrown the idea of living the Clueless life, youll love the glitz and glamour of Omotesando with its designer shops and perfectly handbagged Tokyo princesses.
Head to the Tokyu Hands shopping centre in the nearby Shibuya too for floors and floors of essentials you never knew you needed until now.
After a hard days shopping, spa gals and guys should try the facilities at the Mandarin Oriental – you can have a treatment 37 floors up, with a stunning view of the city, and use their pool, steam room and sky view sauna.
Sight For Sore Eyes, a 35-minute head massage, costs £89.
Where to stay in Tokyo and how to get there:
I stayed at two very different hotels – first at the cool, fun and affordable The Moxy Tokyo Kinshicho then at the lavish and lovely Mandarin Oriental.
Rooms at The Moxy Tokyo Kinshicho in June cost from £72 per night while rooms at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo cost from £616 per night.
I flew with Japan Airlines from London Heathrow to Tokyo.
Flights take roughly 12 hours. One-way flights cost from £382, meaning you can get a return trip for £764 if you plan in advance.
(Top picture: Getty)
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