By Karen Edwards, Travel & Lifestyle Journalist. @KarenNEdwards on Instagram and Twitter. TravelButterfly.com.
Tuesday 24 Jul 2018 12:00 pm
Host to the Colosseum, the Pantheon, designer stores and close to the Popes official residence in nearby Vatican City, Rome is one of Europes most popular cities to visit.
Although there are certainly a number of famous sites you shouldnt miss, I was curious to investigate just how much Rome has to offer those who want to head off the beaten path and are looking to experience the citys lesser-known wonders.
So, having ticked off the ancient Basilicas and even marvelled at Michelangelos handiwork at the Sistine Chapel, I headed off on a mission to find the undercover highlights of Rome.
My first stop was pretty Trastevere on the west bank of the Tiber River, where the cobbled streets are lined with old ivy-covered buildings.
Here are cafes, bars and unique artsy stores dotting the avenue leading to the Santa Maria Piazza.
I started with breakfast at the Giselda Cafe, where the fresh juice (or an espresso martini) and freshly baked pastries are waiting to be devoured.
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From mid-morning, neighbourhood favourite Gelateria served up the creamiest, most-satisfying gelato (get the chocolate) to happy locals with a sweet tooth.
From there, I meandered along the riverfront, enjoying the weird and wonderful street art that along the way – and mentally noted that the cosy, nameless pub on the south-west corner of Vicolo Dei Chiodaroli, with large wine barrels posing as tables and a varied selection of Italian wine bottles lining the bar, opens its doors at 4pm.
Seeing as I was in one of Europes cultural centres, I went in search of the citys less predictable cultural curiosities – and what could be more peculiar than a small Catholic Church partially made using human body parts?
Yes, you read that right: Chiesa di Santa Maria della Concezione on Via Veneto sits above an underground crypt that holds the remains of 4,000 friars.
In 1631, Cardinal Antonio Barberini ordered the remains to be exhumed and for individual bones to be placed along the walls as decoration.
These are, somewhat eerily, still here today.
On Via Salaria, I came across the Catacombs of Priscilla. The dark underground passageway took me through the ancient Christian burial grounds, which date back to the second to the fifth centuries.
While Rome has four other catacomb sites, this is the only one where you find some of the earliest fresco paintings of the Virgin Mary.
Although all of Romes streets are full of stunning colonial-style buildings, there is one street that is really worth visiting – the road from Rome to Brindisi.
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Constructed in 312 BC, the Queen of Roads totals 513km in length. I didnt have time to travel the entire length of the road, but just standing at the starting point at the Baths of Caracalla in the southern Regio XII district is special.
As the sun begins to set, the San Lorenzo neighbourhood (just north of the Termini train station) wakes up – and Romes students hit the city.
This area is a great alternative to the tourist-heavy, high-street and designer-label laden streets of the city centre. Instead, the theme of these boutiques is vintage style – and all at decent prices.
The student-friendly cheap bars of Via dei Sabelli and Via dei Volsci just around the corner are great places to experience the citys vibrant and varied nightlife.
Finally, what could be more Italian than to experience a wholesome meal from a local family-run restaurant – and thats exactly the experience Pizzeria il Boscaiolo on Via degli Artisti gives you.
Naturally, I was craving the ultimate pizza, but, with my intolerances (onion and garlic being a particular issue), I feared it might be too hard to find food.
However, I was pleasantly surprised to find this side-street restaurant happily produce a sour-dough base pizza with lashings of Gorgonzola and prosciutto – without a hint of onion or garlic. A winner.
Where to stay in Rome and how to get there
Baglioni Hotel Regina provides large, spacious rooms from €260 (£232) a night on a B&B basis.
Located on the scenic Via Vittorio Veneto, Baglioni Hotel Regina is a 10-minute walk from the central shopping district and Spanish Steps, and a 20-minute walk from the river.
Optional lunch and dinner is served in a state-room style setting.
British Airways has direct flights from London Gatwick to Rome Fiumicino Airport from £70 return.
(Top picture: Getty)
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