Surfing in Croyde has all grown up – heres how to plan your own luxury seaside break to this part of north Devon

By Sarah Rodrigues, Australian-born freelance journalist.

Tuesday 16 Oct 2018 12:00 pm

Luxuriating in the freestanding, roll top bath at the foot of my Chalet Saunton bedroom, memories of the gritty shower stalls at the Croyde campsite, where I used to doss down during the surfing weekends of my 20s, are dissolving in a hazy swirl of aromatherapy scents.

Here, Ive had the warmest of welcomes (and a basket of Ila apothecary bath and body products) from the housekeeper, who has also made sure that theres gluten free bread in the pantry; there, I used to be shouted at by a site manager who banned alcohol, was ruthlessly determined to keep groups of guys and girls biblically separate and nursed, as far as I could tell, a basic hatred of people in general.

I could be a million light years away, yet in truth, less than 2 miles separates me from those soggy pitches.

In this area of north Devon, such a level of luxury would have been unimaginable 12 or so years ago; Saunton Sands Hotel next door was about as upmarket as it got.

Surf culture started to really take off in the UK in the late 90s, becoming as much a fashion statement and lifestyle choice as an occasional hobby.

Many of the original proponents of the trend probably still inhabit the wave-lashed shores of Cornwall and Devon, but the urbanites and part-timers have grown up, got city jobs and swapped the hoodie for a well-cut suit, and the budget off-peak rail ticket for a 4WD.

The desire to brave the elements is still there, but wild weekends are re-lived with a luxurious twist, like macncheese with a dusting of truffle shavings.

As a local, Chalet Sauntons owner, Tim Fleming, has witnessed the shift first hand and, sensing a demand for more opulent accommodation, responded with the upscale development of the site on which his family home once stood, transforming it into six three-bedroom apartments and a two-bed penthouse.

His intuition was spot-on, as it turns out: the propertys very first August hit 90% occupancy.

When I first started surfing in the early 90s, there were just a couple of Kombi vans in the car park and only two of us out back in the water, he recalls.

Now, the car park is a sea of Range Rovers and convertibles, and the water is full of surfers of all ages and abilities.

This new crowd prefer smashed avocado and poached eggs to cream teas and bingo; theyre affluent, fit and keen to embrace natural resources on a weekend break from the city.

Youd have been hard-pressed to find an avocado, let alone a smashed one, back in the day; I clearly remember grumbling that Croyde needed to take a leaf out of Bondis book.

Is there anything more annoying than an Australian in England? Yes, as a matter of fact. Yes there is. Theres not being able to find a decent coffee on a Saturday morning after a night in a tent.

The Thatch, legendarily the pub into which everyone would cram at the days end to sink pints and swap tales of surfing exploits, is still there, still crowded, and its pub grub is still satisfactory – but one night there suffices.

Its biggest draw was always the fact that it was right there, a walk from and a stumble to the campsite.

As four-wheeled adults, there are far more enticing options available – I love a plate of nachos and a beer as much as anyone, but theres no comparison with the perfectly cooked lamb rump and velvety shiraz that I demolish at the award-winning The Kings Arms in nearby Georgeham, the kitchen of which is stocked by its own greenhouse nursery.

In fact, north Devon is home to more Michelin stars than Manchester and Liverpool combined – further proof of this coastal locations coming of age.

The Olive Room, run by local chef Thomas Carr, gained its first star in 2016 and retained it the following year.

Located around 20 minutes from Croyde, its menu puts a heavy emphasis on seafood, with the likes of hand-dived scallops, line-caught wild north Devon bass and Lundy crab making my mouth crackle with saliva as soon as I read the words.

Given the views from Chalet Saunton – think floor to ceiling glass, yielding seamlessly to the broad expanse of Saunton Sands – youd be forgiven for not wanting to venture too far for food.

I mean, what issue could you possibly have with the mindlessness of endlessly stirring a risotto when you can gaze at those shifting tides, while your bare feet are warmed by wall-to-wall underfloor heating and your wine is chilling in the climate controlled fridge?

Lukewarm beers from a contraband cool box? Not any more – and the morning coffee issue has been amply solved by the presence of a Nespresso machine or, in the village, by relative newcomer The Stores, where your extra-shot soy milk latte is barista-crafted to perfection, and groceries to take back to the chalet would give any so-called city providore a run for its money.

Naturally enough, the surfing offering has upped its game considerably, too – having once wriggled, shivering, inelegant and exposed, into fraying wetsuits of dubious hygiene, were now ensconced in a heated blue double decker bus, which forms the changing room of Croyde Surf Academy, tugging on thick, fresh, seam-free neoprene.

The Academy guarantees to have absolute beginners standing by the end of the first lesson, while those who have surfed before have various betterment options, ranging from stance improvement and linking their turns, to getting to grips with the bigger waves out back.

From what I remember – and Im not saying that its much – surfing and partying used to go hand in hand.

These days, it seems, virtually every activity needs to come with a side order of virtue to make it an adult-worthy pursuit – so its unsurprising that the area now offers a number of retreats that combine surfing with wellness.

Chalet Sauntons two night autumn offering, hosted by renowned surf-trainer Andrew Blake, focuses on techniques for both body and mind, with an emphasis on yoga, mindfulness and a nutrient-rich diet, with guided meditation and vinyasa flow yoga sessions.

Running from November 16-18, the two night stay, which includes locally-sourced vegan meals and fresh juices and a sports massage, will set you back £575 per person – more than half of what I was earning in a month when I first started weekending here.

But then again, that was before I – and Croyde – became a grown up.

Oh, and speaking of grown ups? Croyde is awash not only with them, but with their offspring.

That joyless campsite manager may have been able to saltpeter a few on-site, in-tent shenanigans, but he had absolutely zero control over what happened when everyone went back to the Big Smoke at the weekends close.

What else to do in Croyde:

Tarka the Otter author Henry Williamson hailed from nearby Georgeham and wrote his novel based on real places in this region.

Spanning a figure-of-eight, 163 miles and diligently waymarked, the Tarka Trail follows the otters journey and is popular with both walkers and cyclists; short and circular sections of it provide a reassuringly land-based excursion for when you just cant face shoe-horning yourself into your wetsuit.

If – and no one will judge you for this – you just want to hole up in your apartment (the penthouse sofas are Le Corbusier, after all) then at the very least, the book you curl up with should be this one.

Where to stay in Croyde and how to get there:

Set out over four floors, Chalet Saunton is both family and pet friendly.

Saunton Sands beach is accessed via a direct footpath from the landscaped gardens, where theres an outdoor shower and space for hanging wetsuits.

Minimalism is the order of the day here – no chintz, china nor sprigged fabric in sight – and the effect is one of light, space and the kind of uncluttered comfort that lends itself perfectly to a short break reboot.

A stay in a three-bedroom apartment (sleeps six) is priced from £350 per night, with a two night minimum, and includes a welcome hamper of local produce, plus products by British organic skincare brand Ila Apothecary.

You can book a stay or a place on the autumn retreat online.

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