Frances oldest perfumer is in Grasse and you can get your own perfume made there

By Jay Jaffa, Social editor

Sunday 28 Oct 2018 8:00 am

Before arriving in Grasse, the only nose I was familiar with was the one dangling on the end of my face.

After a day in the perfume capital of the world, I not only decided I could become a nose, but also found myself enthralled by the idea of insuring ones nostrils for upwards of £1 million.

Grasse is a small town 40 minutes drive from Nice in the south of France and famed for being the perfume capital of the world.

Maybe its more of an insight into me than anything else but the tour we were given of Parfumerie Galimard left me thinking I hadnt learnt so much in a day in years.

As it turns out, the nose is the affectionate term for a perfumer, the highly-skilled and much-vaunted person responsible for creating perfumes.

With such a fine sense of smell, the very best noses (of which there are only around 100 worldwide) insure theirs for upwards of £1 million and only work a couple of hours a day.

Not a bad gig really, and a career path I definitely have my eye on.

Along with the tour group, I was introduced to the processes that went into making perfumes.

Then it was onto making one of my own.

In a room resembling a school science lab, a group of around 20 men and women in white coats milled around the desks we would-be perfumers were sat at, guiding us towards the different notes we should consider as we worked on our own scent.

There were a lot of options.

Its an intricate process, full of pitfalls, though forgetting you were making a scent for your girlfriend and not yourself seems like one I could and probably should have avoided.

Alas, in went Musc Blanc and the Mousse dArbe, and thus began a horror show performance in the parfumerie.

As tempting as it was to double down and concoct something truly awful, I tried my best to turn the masculine base notes I started with into a smell my girlfriend might like, maybe even wear.

Unfortunately it was easier said than done, and the grimace from the nose who tried desperately to rescue my shambolic creation told me all I needed to know: There was no coming back from this. It now resides in a dusty cupboard maturing.

Even ignoring the clash of smells in my test tube, it was far more challenging than I anticipated.

There were success stories among our party though, notably one that experimented with tobacco.

But its a unique and fun way to spend the day, and coming in at €53 per person, the tour and perfume-making session also includes a 100ml bespoke Eau de Parfum to take away with you,

Getting around the south of France:

Having a good car to drive around the region is essential.

I test-drove the new Ford Focus ST, a sporty number with room enough for a family of four – its a particular treat given the picturesque surroundings.

The mountainous landscape means you can really put a car to the test along the winding roads – something I was more than happy to do.

The sensational views over the coastal towns just added to the pleasure and challenge of what must be one of the most enjoyable stretches of road to explore.

Perhaps the most impressive aspect of the Focus was the HUD (heads-up display), which projected information like speed directly into your field of vision, without obstructing it.

It is an exaggeration to say it felt like I was in Top Gun, but it was nevertheless incredibly cool and something totally novel for me as a semi-regular driver.

Now, this might sound like Im bragging, but one method of transport I have to recommend for the area is power boat.

I was transported from the magnificent Hotel Belle Rives – which must be one of the most quaint lunch spots on the coast – to Nice airport by VanDutch 40 power boats. It felt very James Bond and naturally made for some great photos. Hello #newprofilepic.

While this was on the more extravagant end of the spectrum, it does draw attention to the beautiful coastline in the south of France.

You might not fancy spending hundreds on this kind of boat trip, but getting out onto the water is a must.

Where to stay in Nice and how to get there

The French Riviera is expensive, but if youve got the budget, you could stay in a private villa at the five-star resort Terre Blanche like I did. Rooms come in at £500 a night, but it feels less like a hotel and more like your own property.

Dinner was fantastic, and the spread for breakfast provided me with just about anything I could think of to start my day. The staff were also a lot of fun and very friendly, making for a hugely enjoyable stay.

Flights are much more reasonable, with Ryanair getting you there for as little as £30 return.

Though I didnt stay at Belles Rives, if youre keen to mingle with the wealthy and be right on the water, this is the perfect spot in Juan-les-Pins and comes in at approximately £300 a night for a sea view.

(Top picture: Jay Jaffa)

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