Im beside myself. Ive always wanted to go to Cuba. And, now, here I am, bum on seat, buckled in and flying across the Atlantic via Paris to one of my bucket-list destinations.
And, despite leaving my phone on the plane and being chased down by an amazing Air France lady who, in a mad, movie-like moment, delivers it to my hand seconds before I go through security, I feel like all my Christmases have come at once.
Ive always been intrigued by this spirited island – the people, the culture, the reality of living in a socialist country.
And the reality didnt disappoint.
They – like me – are not a fan of Agent Orange who has, as he is doing for increasingly more and more people, made life trickier. Since the alleged and unexplained sonic attacks on staff members of the US Embassy in Havana operations have been hugely reduced.
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Now, as a Cuban, if youd like to apply for any kind of visa to visit the United States you have to travel to Guyana or another South American country to obtain one. But theres no guarantee, of course, and people can spend thousands on flights, accommodation and visa fees to then get rejected. Of course, for many Cubans, this is financially impossible.
There still exist many state jobs that, no matter whether youre a doctor or an admin assistant, Im told are paid roughly the same. The same being around $25 a month.
And, so, unsurprisingly, this has encouraged a black market to rise as people try to better their situation.
While I was there I was told only to buy cigars in hotels, but people will try to flog them to you on the street. Cubans who work in the cigar factories – wheres the worlds most famous cigars are made – are given five cigars a day and its these that they use to try and up their socio-economic status.
However, despite this – and there is so much to Cuban society than I have touched upon here – the Cuban spirit is, like Beyoncé, flawless.
I practised my (bad) Spanish, replaced all the water mass in my body with rum, danced, tried those infamous Cuban cigars, coughed – a lot — drank more rum and soaked up the warm embrace of the Cubans.
I had the time of my life.
Here are just seven reasons why I love this Caribbean island almost as much as I love my mum:
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1. No advertising
Imagine a magical place where advertising doesnt exist. No one is telling you to be thinner, bigger, stronger, weaker, cleaner, messier, taller, shorter, work harder, relax more, avoid fat, then margarine, then butter, then margarine… Dont imagine, just go to Cuba.
Bizarrely, I didnt notice until a local brought it to my attention. This is why Cuban women are so confident, she said. I moved back from Spain because I couldnt stand being constantly told theres something wrong with me. Shes got a point. Its amazing what a marketing detox can do for your body image and self-confidence. I highly recommend it.
2. The birthplace of ron
Though the origin of dark ron or rum (as we call it) is much contested in the Caribbean, few will argue with the fact that Cuba birthed light rum.
Either way, no matter the colour, Havana Club Rum is very much the national drink. And there are several places to enjoy it – all of which I tried because, you know…research.
At El Museo del Ron (the Rum Museum), there was a too-many-rums-to-count tasting, followed by original cocktails, including my favourite, Canchánchara, and another made from OJ, rum and sugar cane.
The sugar cane is freshly juiced in the courtyard, and you can help squeeze it.
You can also head to Club Habana (Havana Club) and pay a small fee to enjoy their private beach, equipped with a fitting rum-stocked beach bar.
Caution: Measures are generous.
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3. The best daiquiri of your life
When I was told Id never have a daiquiri like the one made at La Floridita, my face carried the sceptical arrogance of Sheldon from The Big Bang Theory.
But, as is often the case with Sheldon, I was proved wrong – only I was way less reluctant than he is to accept the error of my ways.
The perfect balance of this drink blew my mind. Its a badly kept secret that this is the place in town for the best daiquiri of your life but Im told the best time to visit is in the afternoon after youve spent some time meandering the streets of Old Town Havana.
4. Cubans know how to party
Its rare that an underground movement stays underground for long but, with no advertising allowed, where to go on your night out is passed on by word of mouth.
Since the laws on private enterprise were relaxed in 2010 by the then newish-president-on-the-block Raúl Castro, making it easier for mom-and-pop businesses to pop up, more Cubans have been transforming their homes into shops, paladares (home-run restaurants) and… nightclubs.
Really cool nightclubs that, for obvious reasons, arent hugely big or commercialised. From the outside they look like someones having a house party but, inside, theres no furniture or priceless vases you have to worry about breaking – theyve been kitted out with bars, dance floors, killer sound systems, even private booths. Its clubbing with class.
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My favourite by far was EFE – I didnt experience what its like to eat at a mellow point in the night but after hours it sure was fun.
5. Music, music, music
From house to jazz to reggaeton and beyond, Cuba is the place to experience some fantastic music.
For live music you want to find what the locals call a casa de la musica – or music house – where you can sit, eat, drink and enjoy the show.
But also ask around about free concerts – this is where youll get a bigger local crowd because its cheaper and easier to soak it up among friends and family.
This is a country where people love their music as much as their rum and cannot help but move their feet…hips…and dance to the beat.
Where to go out in Havana
As a general rule, Id avoid anything with the words state-owned. Instead, Id opt for family-owned-and-run businesses where the quality, service and love that goes into everything just seems ample. I stayed in a hotel while here, but Id definitely opt for a homestay next time.
TO EAT + DRINK[hhmc]
La Guarida – WARNING: Comes with many stairs…
El del Frente – Great spot for a drink or a meal with a great little roof terrace
Vistamar – A pool, the sea, and good food – what more could you want?
Casa Miglis – Fun times all round at this bar / restaurant / club
Centro Asturiano – Far-reaching views and I can highly recommend the sweet potato
La Floridita – A must-do drink spot for world-renowned daiquiris
Coppelia – Apparently the only spot in town to get decent ice cream
TO LISTEN + DANCE[hhmc]
EFE – Cute club with great beats
La Esencia – The bar is meh but the locals were killing it with salsa on the dancefloor
Jazz Café – Where your entry fee covers your food and drink
Palacio de la Rumba – Attracts a young crowd for a great night out
Los Jardines de la Tropical – Keep your ear to the ground for open-air concerts here
Fabrica de Arte – Perhaps the most popular place in town
6. Theres a part of town that has more tiles than your bathroom
Its called Fusterlandia. Named after the artist behind these tiled-creations, José Fuster, who, inspired by public works by Gaudí, started his own rudimentary artistic expressions.
Tiling his studio first, in the run-down neighbourhood of Jaimanitas in 1975, his neighbours soon admired his work and asked him to do their walls, houses and so on.
It brought the area up and created a haven for artists who continue his tradition. Ive never seen anything like it and Im not sure I ever will again. One thing that man had – patience.
7. An internet-free zone
Im not going to lie, being cut off from the internet felt to me how I imagine Id feel coming off crack. Bag of nerves, sweating, scratching all over for no apparent reason.
Its not that you cant access the internet in Cuba, but its certainly not as easy or free as were used to in the UK. So you start to think (eventually), whats the point?
And, slowly but surely, you return to being a normal human – one that can entertain themselves, hold a conversation and maintain an attention span of longer than 20 seconds.
Who knew.
Hannah Berry George is a writer and director. Find more from her at hannahberrygeorge.com or on Twitter and Instagram @veryberrygeorge
Pass it forward
Dont be thrown if people come up to you on the street asking for soap (jabón) or shampoo. These items are quite expensive for locals, so they often ask tourists if they can spare any as we often travel with it or have it provided at our accommodation, unless youre staying at a homestay, in which case youll usually have to provide your own. Ive advised all my friends who have visited since to carry some spare.
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