By Qin Xie, Assistant communities editor
Sunday 25 Nov 2018 8:00 am
When I think of Provence, I always think of perfumes.
Those endless fields of lavender and historic perfumeries in Grasse certainly do a lot to fortify that image.
But after a weekend break to this beautiful part of southern France, I think that vision has been firmly replaced with good food.
Then again, its not hard when your pilgrimage is to a pair of gourmet inns owned by the legendary Alain Ducasse.
And legend is the right moniker, because since gaining three Michelin stars at Louis XV decades ago – the first hotel restaurant to do so at the time – Ducasse has gone on to open dozens of restaurants around the world.
Currently, he has more Michelin stars to his name than any other living chef and, as it happens, both of his inns hold a coveted star each.
I started my journey at LHostellerie de LAbbaye de La Celle, a small property thats adjacent to the Benedictine abbey dating to the 12th century.
The abbey had once been home to some debauched nuns – or so I was told – though the most scandalous thing that happened to me was the scent of chicken stock wafting through its corridors.
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Im not sure how the abbeys visitors staved off the hunger pangs that inevitably ensued, but I never had to find out – for shortly after getting in, I sat down for a light lunch.
Of course, in France, a casse croute is rarely small.
I was treated to starters of crudités with dips and barbagiuan (a pastry stuffed with chard and cheese), followed by hake with bouillabaisse and a selection of goats cheeses. And to finish, an absolutely heavenly Gran Marnier soufflé.
I tip my hat to Nicolas Pierantoni, the chef leading the team at LHostellerie.
The food was gorgeous and delicious of course – but more so because it was so regional, and filled with anecdotes of Ducasses life.
Barbagiuan, for example, is Monacos national dish – because Ducasse is both French and Monegasque.
But if lunch was good, dinner could only get better.
During my visit, the restaurant was on the tail end of their annual Tous au Restaurant (Your guest is our guest) event, where they offer two tasting menus for the price of one, so the restaurant was exceptionally busy.
Even so, the team managed a steady stream of dishes, including crayfish with a cep veloute, Swiss chard ravioli, roasted sea scallops and a divine duck and foie gras pie, followed by cheeses, a chocolate dessert and petit fours.
For 105€ – plus the same meal for your mate, free of charge – its a total steal.
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And fortunately, after my second feast of the day, it was just a short stroll to the characterful rooms on the property.
The most wonderful thing about waking up in a property owned by a chef is that they really put thought into your breakfast.
At LHostellerie, that meant freshly baked croissants, cakes and breads, confitures and honey from the estate, eggs to your liking and some seriously good coffee in the airy breakfast room.
If that doesnt set you up for the day, I dont know what will.
It wasnt long before lunch rolled round again. I know – it feels like breakfast was only a second ago.
Not to be outdone by the previous days light lunch, the team at LHostellerie created a picnic feast to be enjoyed under the shade of the olive trees in the garden.
With the autumnal sun still casting a warm glow, a spread featuring cold cuts, freshly made bread, salads, fruit tarts, and generous pours of the local wine made for a lovely afternoon.
A picnic in the gardens is only available by request, but for a dining experience that makes you feel right at home – if your home was a French chateaux in Provence – its definitely worth thinking about for a special occasion.
For the second part of my journey, I headed to La Bastide de Moustiers, a property that Ducasse had originally envisioned as his family home.
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What a home it would have been; the rooms are charming and chic and full of character while the grounds is home to a vegetable garden and some friendly donkeys.
Despite the smaller kitchen space at La Bastide – it wouldnt look amiss inside a family home in the country – the food somehow feels more formal.
Still taking on the essence of Ducasses cuisine, the chef in charge here, Frédéric Garnier, combines more challenging flavours to create his tasting menu of delights.
While I was there, the team served up a menu that featured foie gras with parsnip and cocoa nibs, green avocado with sea bream, and venison with jugged cabbage – all accompanied by the cellars very quaffable wines.
If croissant and coffee the morning after didnt help blow the cobwebs away, an excursion to nearby Gorges du Verdon certainly did the job for me.
Of course, if you organised your trip through La Bastide, you also have a lovely picnic lunch to look forwards to.
Red mullet with grains and lamb with seasonal vegetables, both presented in adorable tiffin boxes, followed by a fig tart of epic proportions – helped with another splash or two of wine – is quite a treat in the wilderness of the mountains.
But thats the thing about staying in a hotel owned by a chef, especially one with so many accolades – whatever you do there, the theme will be deliciously indulgent.
Other things to do in Provence:
LHostellerie is surrounded by the charming commune of La Celle, which is easy to explore on foot. You can also visit the abbey next door, which sometimes hosts art exhibitions.
For more art in the area, drive to Venet Foundation, where Bernar Venet has his home and studio. There are guided visits during the summer season, and you might just see the artist himself at work.
If wine is your thing, there are many wineries to choose from in the area – but at Château Peyrassol, an estate once owned by the Knights Templar, youll also find works by Venet as well as other artists.
La Bastide is just outside the commune of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. Its easy to explore on foot and is known for the Faience style of pottery.
Its also near the Gorges du Verdon, a canyon thats popular with hikers but just as easy to explore via a lazy drive.
Where to stay in Provence and how to get there:
LHostellerie de lAbbaye de la Celle offers superior double rooms from €239 (approx. £210) per night based on two sharing.
Their tasting menus start from €77 per person. They can also accommodate other foodie experiences, such as the picnic I enjoyed, on request.
La Bastide de Moustiers offers superior double rooms from €270 (approx. £237) per night based on two sharing.
Their tasting menu starts from €90 per person. They also offer excursions to Gorges du Verdon with a picnic.
Both also have lunch and a la carte menus – in case youre already staying nearby and are looking for a bit of a treat.
The nearest airport for the two properties is Marseille. EasyJet has return flights starting from £64.
(Top picture: Qin Xie)
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