Why the English Riviera is perfect for a Christmas, New Years Eve or weekend break

By Yvette Caster, Freelance journalist and podcaster

Thursday 20 Dec 2018 6:37 am

Thatll be the ghost again, says Karen on reception.

Id been photographing Orestone Manors lobby and bar for the Gram when a beer pump clip clatters to the ground of its own accord – or possibly not.

I aint afraid of no ghosts but the hotel, in Maidencombe near Torquay, has reason enough to have them – its the blue plaqued former home of John Callcott Horsley, who designed the first commercial Christmas card.

Hes also known for his painting of his brother-in-law, engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, which you can see in the National Portrait Gallery.

As I sit by the fire drinking my tea I imagine John chatting to Isambard, seemingly the perfect host but quietly resentful that his artistic achievements have been overshadowed yet again by his in-law and another sodding bridge.

The hotel ghost – who I later learn is supposedly a woman with dark hair, spotted twice at the very top of the house, hasnt put off celebrity guests, who have included Roger Moore and the Made In Chelsea set.

Next door is Rock House, where Rudyard Kipling stayed. The building, currently for sale, is thought to have inspired his novel The House Surgeon.

This area is also a must for Agatha Christie fans – you can visit her holiday home, Greenway, and travel to and from there by steam train. Its open Saturdays and Sundays in December, tickets cost £12.80.

Orestone is now run by the DAllen family, mum and dad in the kitchen, the boys waiting tables.

The DAllens Christmas, of course, will be spent looking after guests, the family celebrating together in the evening.

James, the youngest, and his girlfriend give me a lift to Sharpham, a vineyard that offers wine and cheese tasting tours.

There we sample British sparking wine, whites and a red plus some excellent cheeses. My favourites the sweet, fruity Bacchus and I also make off with some of their Elmhirst – a triple cream Jersey milk cheese. A guided tasting in December lasts 45 minutes and costs £12.50, while hampers cost from £30.

Back at Orestone I take the 15-minute walk down to the sea and explore the local beach with its red clay cliffs. Theres a pub handily half way up the very steep slope too, called The Thatched Tavern, if you need to stop for refreshment.

Its a very good spot for coastal walks, of course, but make sure you pack your mac and wellies or walking boots this time of year.

Nearby tourist attractions include Babbacombe, with its model village, cliff railway and theatre. The former will be looking Christmassy from now to January 20, while Babbacombe Theatre is hosting a show featuring comedy, magic, song and dance called Christmas Crackers from now until January. Tickets cost £22.

Slightly further afield theres Torquay, with its harbour and museum, and Exeter, with shiny shops, impressive cathedral and museums.

I enjoyed my little jaunt to Torquay and its slightly rundown high street. For one thing, theres a little land train to take you about.

For another theres Fleet Walk, a two-level shopping mall with a balcony that makes you look like youre in an old school platform game. Here youll find Vintage & Retro clothes shop and Torquay Candle Co, which looks like Christmas on khat.

Theres also Hoopers department store and Janes for quirky bags – I bought one that looks and works like a boom box.

In terms of festive shows, The Princess Theatre in Torquay has Melinda Messenger starring in Sleeping Beauty from now until January 6.

Torquay train station is about a mile from the town centre, and its a pleasant walk round the bay.

If steam trains are your thing, theres the Santa Express and Train Of Lights. While the latter has already sold out, theres still tickets to The Santa Express, between Queens Park Station in Paignton and Kingswear, featuring magic tricks and a two-part panto.

Father Christmas and his elves are on board, and the train runs on December 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24. Tickets cost £19.75 for adults and £13 for children on each day except Christmas Eve, when adults tickets cost £20.75 and childrens are £14.

On the normal train from Torquay, I decided to explore more of Devon, heading up to Exeter St Davids (£7.70 single) – its about a 30-minute walk up a hill to the town centre or you can wait for a connecting train to Exeter Central.

The city has a younger, more cosmopolitan feel – the first thing I see here is a pub sign for vegan snacks.

Karen recommended a cream tea at Tea On The Green, near Exeter Cathedral, and Im not disappointed – they serve enormous homemade scones, locally-made jam and fresh Devonshire cream. Theres also Spirited Tea Pots – hot or cold tea and booze blends.

Once youve looked round the stunning cathedral (entrance £7.50), theres a decent high street for shopping, and stores include House Of Fraser, M&S, LOccitaine and Waterstones.

Nearby, the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM) is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm. Theres free entry. It is closed on Mondays, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day.

If you book in advance, you can also explore Exeters underground passages – they transported water round the city in the 14th century. Tickets cost £6.

In terms of festive shows, Exeter Corn Exchanges production of Aladdin runs until January 1.

Where to stay and how to get there

I stayed at Orestone Manor which, as a family-run hotel, made for a particularly welcoming stay.

The food was outstanding – locally-sourced and hearty.

One lemon posset, with its Devon cream, was the kind of dessert to make vegans seriously question their life choices.

The hotels Christmas Day lunch menu, which includes black tiger prawn cocktail, free range turkey and homemade Christmas pudding costs £110 each.

Their 70s-themed New Years Eve dinner, which includes a three-course meal, Champagne and fireworks, jazz band and disco, costs £110.

A double room in December, plus breakfast, costs from £145 per night. In February prices start from £110 per night.

I recommend driving to the area as this time of year local bus and train services are reduced, so getting about can be tricky (Uber doesnt seem to exist and local taxis are expensive).

However, if youre looking to hole up in a cosy hotel, occasionally heading out for a coastal walk, take a direct train from London Paddington to Newton Abbot – the trip takes about three hours and a return costs from £54.50. A taxi from the station to the hotel cost me £25 – book in advance for a better rate.

Top image: Getty

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