As Im drifting down the tar-black waters of the River Negro in a tiny canoe, in the dead of night, the only thing I can see is the outline of the towering trees all around me. Im totally engulfed by rainforest.
The treetops are illuminated by a carpet of stars so bright, the sky appears almost CGI-designed. The only noises I can hear is the defiant rattling of the cicadia beetles in the reeds, and the ominous growl of howler monkeys in the distance.
Its eerie, isolated – and totally ethereal.
I realise that I havent seen anyone (other than those in my travel group) for days now. No-one knows where I am. I dont even really know where I am.
Im taking a week-long, Amazon River cruise with Adventure Life, to seek out Brazils wildlife deep in the heart of the jungle.
And despite the reputation of the rainforest as a place teeming with action, adventure and animals at every turn, I discovered that in order to appreciate its beauty, you need to leave your expectations at home and learn the art of slow travel.
Night-time canoe trips
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That night in the canoe however, I find myself willing our boat to go a little faster. Canoe excursions are daily and my guide, the forest-born Edje, is determined to show us a giant caiman (Brazilian crocodile) tonight. They can grow to 20 ft long, he had grinned one morning over breakfast, much to my horror.
Edjes words echo in my mind as I watch him shine a torch into the abyss. Were searching for a pair of eyes twinkling back at us; a parrot in the bushes, a sloth hanging from a branch, or a crocodile lurking beneath our boat.
Im nervous as I think about how close our little canoe is to the water. In the unending darkness, we weave in and out of narrow channels as bats and bugs flutter around my head.
The canoe slows to a stop near the terra firma (soft land) with a gentle thud, and Edje stands on its nose, bending towards the shallow waters to pick something up. A baby caiman, he says, as he holds it towards us.
The little reptile is khaki-coloured with tiny teeth. Edje tells us that caiman are often hunted for their skin, but can sometimes live for over 100 years. Adult females lay around 40 eggs, but Edje says only four will survive on average.
Im suddenly concerned about the whereabouts of its (potentially giant) parents, though. What if weve disrupted a happy home?
Suddenly as if on cue, we hear a giant splash behind our canoe. I catch sight of a large crocodile swimming at lightning speed towards our boat.
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Mummys home. And shes not happy.
Edje quickly returns Spyro to the waters as my heart feels like its going to explode from my chest. I feel an overwhelming sense of relief as we return to our riverboat.
Boat-life
The Amazon rainforest is an enigma – over 40,000 plant species and 427 mammals have been found there, and scientists believe theres plenty more to be uncovered. Over 60% of the forest lies in Brazil, and its best to explore some of it with boat trips or a stay in a jungle lodge.
I found the Adventure Life cruise – which sets sail from Manaus, and explores some of the most untouched, uninhabited rainforest in the Amazon Basin – to be the perfect way to see everything whilst travelling in eco-friendly style.
I stayed on the Tucano, a traditional-looking motor yacht that can house up to 18 passengers, complete with open upper deck lined with hammocks, elegant dining room, and over 70 large glass windows to ensure stunning views from all angles.
On my first day Im delighted to find that Im just one of three guests, which gives the entire trip a more intimate touch, and I settle into boat life surprisingly quickly. Theres no Wi-Fi in the Amazon and Im totally fine with tuning in to the sights and sounds of natural world instead of my phone.
Each day we have three action-packed excursions in the jungle, starting with a 5.30am kayak trip, which quickly becomes a daily highlight.
Each morning, as the sky turns from muted purple to brilliant yellow, I watch capuchin monkeys playing in the canopy above our heads, and cartoonishly blue butterflies glide past us as we paddle around.
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We kayak into the shallow parts of the River Negro where trees lie half submerged in tar-coloured waters and there is little dry ground. This spooky, swamp-like world is known as igapó, meaning flooded forest, and it happens during rainy season each year. Kayaking in this section of the river is spine-tinglingly thrilling and incredibly eerie.
Post-kayak, its time to return to the Tucano for a traditional Brazilian breakfast of eggs and manioc (tapioca) pancakes before heading out for another afternoon expedition; either a jungle walk, canoe ride, or trip to visit a local river community, before a delicious lunch of tambaqui fish with a selection of vegetables.
Afternoons are best filled by watching the forest roll by in a blur of verdant greenery on the top-deck, then its dinner and a night-time canoe ride.
By the time I get back to the vessel, Im exhausted and in my private cabin, I quickly fall asleep to the sound of the jungle – the gentle lap of the waters against our boat and the bleating noise of the night-jay birds is my lullaby.
Piranha fishing and pink-dolphin spotting
On day four, in the sizzling heat of the late afternoon, were taken to a little spot along the River Negro to fish for red-bellied piranha. Around 3,000 freshwater fish have been found in the Amazon, including the piranha, which are famed for their feeding frenzies and sharp teeth.
Its my first time fishing and at first, I dont have the touch, whereas my new boat-friends are pulling in giant fish.
As we head to another spot, I hear a noise Read More – Source
