How to spend an alternative weekend in Copenhagen that isnt all hygge and fairytales

Copenhagen exists almost in the same breath as fairytales. As the home, for many years, and eventually the burial place of Hans Christian Andersen, its synonymous with enchanting stories and whimsical thinking.

And then theres Denmark itself. The Danes, with their almost insulting levels of joie de vivre, are the stuff that happily ever afters are made of.

Yes, Denmark is the happiest country in the world. If youve been hibernating under your duvet (in winter) or umbrella (in summer) like any self-respecting Brit, then this fact – repeatedly proven by all manner of tests and indexes – may have failed to penetrate your cynical consciousness. The Danes happily pay incredibly high taxes, smilingly believing that these create a better society and, whats more, they cycle a LOT – so theres less pollution and their bums are summer-peach-firm.

And lets not even get started on hygge, a sort of national understanding of the simple benefits of spending quality time with good people in pleasant surroundings: something that this country futilely seeks to emulate with cheap candles and itchy blankets.

If were missing a trick, then fear not. Theres a delicious and, occasionally, dark underbelly to all of that too good to be true, squeaky cleanliness: irreverent, fun and frequently edgy.

the little mermaid statue in copenhagen — The iconic Little Mermaid statue (Picture: Sarah Rodrigues)

After all, in the original version of The Little Mermaid, she loses not only her voice but also her tongue, and the legs for which shes traded them cause her agony. Nor does she get her Prince at the end, instead dissolving, tragically, into sea foam.

Let it not be said that the Danes dont know how to put a twist on things.

Our weekend starts at the Moxy, an offshoot of the Marriott group, which is dedicated to letting you make the most of your time in the city by offering slightly out-of-centre accommodation and functional bedrooms, offset by the most Insta-friendly public spaces imaginable, all geared towards allowing you to spend your money where itll buy you the most fun. After all, sleeping is for comatose princesses, right?

Think eccentric murals, the best elevator selfie backdrops, life-sized Jenga and Connect 4, crazy statues and tongue-in-cheek neon. Throw in a light fitting made of bicycle wheels and bar staff well-versed in pouring generous measures, and your very own happily ever after is off to a splendid start.

hotel the moxy in copenhagen — A lounge area in The Moxy (Picture: The Moxy)

As for getting ready for the ball… the Moxy partners with various local suppliers to enhance your in-lobby experience, so dont be surprised to find that you can partake in nail art, hands-on screen printing and even tattoos at the same time as youre carb-loading bar snacks.

Dont fill up on those snacks too much though: its virtually impossible to have a bad meal in Copenhagen.

We head to Reffen by way of an evening boat ride along the canals, into which locals are post-work plunging; established just last year, its all about luscious street food with a sheen of sustainability.

Over the course of its 6000m2 area, there are no fewer than 50 vendors, and a further space devoted to harbourfront relaxation – but throughout, materials have been reused and upcycled to create a beautifully ramshackle city of huts and stalls from which insanely good aromas emanate.

danes soaking up the sun by the water — Danes soaking up the sun by the water (Picture: Sarah Rodrigues)

As for the vendors themselves, theyre all committed to a strict reduce and reuse mantra, so its locally sourced and free range edibles as far as possible, with compostable servingware and eco-friendly waste management. Every mouthful is a joy, and thats even without the effortlessly gorgeous looking people sitting around firepits against an incredible sunset.

Sustainability and eco-goals are things for which Copenhagen is well known – the city has pledged to be the worlds first carbon-neutral capital by 2025 – but if theres an element of overzealousness or haughty virtue that sometimes seems to accompany such worthy principles, you wont find it here.

Its just… cool. Theres no other word for it.

a boutique in copenhagen — Copenhagen is undeniably cool (Picture: Sarah Rodrigues)

Take Jægersborggade, in the Nørrebro neighbourhood, gleaming with cobblestones in the early summer light.

Lined with shops promoting, in one way or another, a No Planet B approach, its less a street than a community; one with common values of social and economic responsibility.

But oh my word. Could it be any more chic?

From Copenhagens first zero waste supermarket, Løes Market, to a clutch of second hand and vintage shops and the sinfully excellent Istid, where organic ingredients combine with liquid nitrogen to create out-of-this-world ice cream, were hooked on our first wander – and thats even without stopping off at any of the hip wine bars or cafes en route.

Inge Vincent, pottery artist in copenhagen — Inge Vincent, a pottery artist (Picture: Sarah Rodrigues)

This is also where local ceramicist, Inge Vincents, crafts and sells her ethereally insubstantial, hand-shaped pottery. Each colourless, translucent piece is like a whisper – a beauty far removed from the equally appealing works of prolific artist Bjørn Wiinblad.

I collect a few of these from one of the streets antique shops; they depict whimsically fanciful and detailed scenes on more substantial plates, vases and bowls.

The Danish vendor I meet in the antiques market by the Christianborg Palace a few days later is less enamoured of Wiinblad, for reasons that his facial expressions and gestures are presumably supposed to make perfectly clear, although Im left none the wiser.

Antiques Market by the Christianborg Palace - copenhagen — Antiques Market by the Christianborg Palace (Picture: Sarah Rodrigues)

That said, he doesnt seem too keen on Germans either, showing me what I think is a statue of a seated boy, until I see that his head lifts, attached to the body by a spine-like rod. Turns out that its a mustard pot: fill the cavity with the condiment, pump the head and bright yellow mustard will dispense from a conveniently placed hole in the rear of the boys britches. Germans, shrugs the vendor. Everything filthy like this.

The memory returns to me as I contemplate condiments later that night at Paté Paté in Copenhagens Meatpacking district, where were having yet another mind-blowing meal.

The area and its surrounding streets used to be seedy and synonymous with red light shenanigans but is now a hive of hipster activity, a draw for those in search of nightlife as well as creativity and independence. Located behind the Tivoli Gardens, which dates back to 1843 and is one of Europes oldest amusement parks, many of its buildings are listed, and hence unsigned – a fact that melds historical integrity with unselfconscious coolness.